In Canada, the tropical-flavored pawpaw fruit is a hidden gem praised by chef Tawnya Brant. Known for its unique blend of banana, mango, and pineapple flavors, the pawpaw boasts a creamy texture that turns caramel-like as it ripens. Brant, a Mohawk chef, describes it as an “alien banana” with substantial seeds inside.
Once abundant in North America, pawpaws were cultivated by Indigenous communities but declined post-colonization due to deforestation. Despite their rich taste, pawpaws have limited popularity due to their short shelf life and susceptibility to bruising.
Growing pawpaws requires specific techniques, as Thomas Mathias discovered on his farm in Ontario. With patience and experimentation, he managed to produce fruit using llama manure to aid pollination. Alongside his sister Beth Secord, the duo now harvests around 250-300 pounds of pawpaws annually, attracting a growing interest from consumers.
Brant suggests finding pawpaws at farmers’ markets or local festivals for a chance to experience their versatile culinary uses, from dressings to desserts. While best enjoyed fresh, caution is advised against consuming the skin or seeds, which can be toxic.
Brant’s ambition is to expand her own pawpaw tree collection to share this “treasured little gift” with more people, emphasizing its uniqueness and annual rarity.